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Showing posts with label berries. Show all posts
Showing posts with label berries. Show all posts

July 6, 2008

Cedarwood Blackberry jam


What could be better than a piece of toasted brioche with homemade blackberry jam.

We spent the 4th of July in the country at Cedarwood, my boyfriend's family house in Hickman county. It's the perfect place to just relax on the porch sipping a beer or go down to the creek and dip your feet in the water. And our timing was impeccable because it's also the perfect place to pick blackberries!

In Tennessee this time of year the blackberries are exploding and you can pick them on the side of the road nearly everywhere where there is a cleared, overgrown sunny patch. I'm told it's a 'trash plant' or a weed that takes over in this climate. Lucky for us! One man's trash is another woman's breakfast.

It doesn't seem like a recipe is really needed to make jam. But I consulted a recent bon appetit column by one of my favorite bloggers, Molly Wizenberg. Hers was simple: about 30 oz of fruit, 2 cups of sugar, 2 tablespoons lemon juice. I used a little more fruit and a little less sugar and didn't do the proper canning--heating the jars and sealing them afterwards. With this small amount of jam I knew we'd eat it quickly with no need for preserving. If I were making large quantities, I would do it the old way.

After washing the berries, combine them with the sugar and lemon juice and let them macerate for about 2 hours, stirring occasionally.



Then in a saucepan over medium heat, bring the mixture to a boil and stir; then turn down heat and mash the berries with a potato masher and simmer for about 20-25 minutes until it becomes a thick purée. How to test when the jam is done cooking: put a spoonful on a plate, put it in the freezer and retrieve it after 5 min. If it gels and bounces back when you touch it, it's done. If not, simmer a bit longer. Spoon into clean jars and let sit at room temperature until completely cooled. Store in the refrigerator.



I grew up eating homemade preserves made by my mother's aunt and uncle in Colorado. I remember their apples, peaches, pears and tomatoes and how they tasted of some old-fashioned goodness. They canned a lot of fruit --I assume from their own fruit trees-- and we were the lucky recipients of their labors. I have only recently begun to appreciate these efforts as someone who tries to eat seasonally and locally.



And what a perfect example of a local food tradition this is: pick blackberries on Friday; make jam on Sat. and enjoy it on Sunday. And it's easy! If only I'd had about 5 more lbs of fruit I would have made jam for everyone. Next time I'll endure the heat and prickly bushes a little longer if only to be able to eat homemade jam more often.

May 7, 2008

lemon semifreddo with fresh berries



Here it is -- what you've been waiting for-- and I assure you, it's worth it. You should go out and get some lemons, some eggs and some berries and MAKE THIS NOW. It's one of those desserts--perfect for a dinner party-- that look really difficult and taste divine but are really easy to make. You don't need to be a pastry chef to do this one!

'Semifreddo' is Italian for half-frozen because this ice cream-like dessert never fully hardens but is cold and delicious. It can be made with many elements--other fruit juices, chocolate, nuts... just replace the lemon juice with some other flavor. I always order them when in Italy as they're one of the more ubiquitous desserts in a country that doesn't indulge too much in the after dinner sweets.

Meyer Lemon Semifreddo with Summer Berries
(adapted from bon appetit, June 2008 pg. 129)

1/2 c sliced almonds
1 3/4 c heavy cream, chilled
1 1/4 plus 2 T sugar
7 large egg yolks
1/2 c fresh meyer or regular lemon juice
1 T plus 2 tsp grated lemon peel
1/4 tsp salt
4 cups mixed fresh berries

Line a 9x5x3-ince metal loaf pan with plastic wrap, leaving ample overhang on the sides
Sprinkle almonds on the bottom in a single layer
Beat whipping cream until soft peaks form, put in refrigerator while making custard
Whisk 1 1/4 c sugar, lemon juice, lemon peel and salt in large metal bowl to blend
Set bowl over large saucepan of simmering water and whisk until thickened, about 4-5 min.
Remove bowl. Using electric mixer, beat mixture until cool, thick and doubled in volume, about 6 min.
Fold in chilled whipped cream. Transfer mixture to prepared loaf pan and smooth top. Fold plastic wrap over top to cover and freeze at least 8 hours, or overnight. This could be done up to 3 days ahead. Keep frozen. When ready to serve, mix remaining sugar with berries and spoon alongside the sliced (1-in thick, crosswise) semifreddo.

N.B.: I'll be on a little roadtrip to Atlanta over the next couple of days. Stay tuned for posts about Restaurant Eugene and Watershed (I hope!)
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